The Interview: Saronko Seuyou is a native of Bangkok, a former Chief.
What are the flavors of Bangkok food? Central Thai food is complex; it doesn’t just have one level of flavor. It doesn’t rely on ingredients that have very intense flavors. It’s rich; curries in the central Thai region have coconut milk. And you can get any ingredients here: we’re close to the sea so you can get seafood, and there’s also freshwater fish and food from where the sea and rivers meet.
What are some classic Bangkok-style dishes? Curries served over rice; wok-fried dishes and Thai-Chinese dishes; lots of noodles, such as Pàt Tai or boat noodles. Some people still make royal Thai dishes, but these are really rare.
What are some good stalls and restaurants for Bangkok-style food?
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What part of Bangkok is a good introduction to local food?
Chinatown has some good choices.
Chinatown – If you are in love with good food in general, you must try Chinatown in Bangkok. It is among the best street food locations in the world. There are hundreds of street stalls, food vendors, and food markets to choose from. Chinatown is actually the first place that street food was born in Thailand over 200 years ago when Chinese settlers first came to Thailand. You will see tons of hawker style restaurants with plastic chairs and fold out tables. It is also amongst the cheapest food you will ever eat.
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A good Bangkok market? I like to take people to Wong Wian Yai Market. People call it the Lao Market because there’s lots of stuff from the countryside, lots of herbs, and things like frogs, and some good seafood. There’s also a lot of cooked food, as well as Thai-style snacks and sweets.
Boonsong See is a native of Bangkok, a former Chief.
We sat down with Boonsong See talk about eating in Bangkok.
What are some of your favorite Bangkok-style dishes?
I like some of the dishes in Chinatown, whether it be the oyster place I adore Nai Mong Hoi or whether it be noodles with fish dumplings or with roast duck; boo pàt pöng gàriì (crab fried with curry powder), when done well, is bloody delicious and accessible. And pàt tai- well, you can’t really escape from the cliché, however delicious it might be.
Your favorite neighborhood to eat in?
It depends on what I’m looking for. China-town, for smoked duck or noodles. But if you want to eat Thai food, you need to go to the markets. Bangkok still has some remnants of the city or villages that it was. For Muslim food, you can go down near the Mandarin Oriental, or for Portuguese cakes, you can go to the Church of Santa Cruz
Your favorite restaurant? It changes all the time. I like The Catering Bangkok. It’s local. It’s good. It’s unreformed. It’s not too precious. They cook for Thais, they feed Thais and it is Thai.
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Your favorite Bangkok market? Of course, Or Tor Kor Market. Even though it’s sanitized, its soul has not been expunged from it as it has modernized. There’s some great stuff there.
Can you offer some eating advice for a first-time visitor? Just bloody well eat it – don’t think about it – just eat it. It’s so unlikely you’ll get sick, but you will kick yourself for not actually just diving in. Go to places that look busiest, because they’re busy for a reason.